While our oldest two sons were still gallivanting in central America with their grandparents, Mr Pict and I decided to take the younger two on a weekend trip to Baltimore. It takes less time to drive to Baltimore than it used to take us to drive to Glasgow from where we lived in Scotland and that was a journey we used to make just to buy shoes. Despite its relative proximity, however, we had only visited Baltimore once since we emigrated to America. It was, therefore, time to go and explore the city a bit more.
First stop was Fort McHenry. Even if you don’t know much about the War of 1812 (like me!) you will likely know of Fort McHenry through association because it was the defence of that fort that inspired Francis Scott Key to write the ‘Star Spangled Banner’, the rousing song that would later become the national anthem. Fort McHenry is positioned on Baltimore’s harbour since it was that waterway it was built to protect and it is in the shape of a five pointed star to maximise the vantage points for each bastion. Built at the close of the 18th Century, the Fort was in constant use by America’s military from then until the end of the First World War. It is, therefore, a very historic place of national significance. Want to hazard a guess how thrilled our 8 and 10 year olds were to be there absorbing all of that history? See if you can spot the point at which they disengaged.
After an introduction in the Visitor Center and the youngest Pictling signing up to do the junior ranger activities, we headed out into the swampy humidity to tour the fort. There were reenactors demonstrating something about firing cannons and cooking at the fort but the kids had no interest in engaging with any of that so we didn’t pause. Once inside the thick walls, we found that some young men were demonstrating different drum signals that were used to signal different messages. I think there might have been one rhythm that was beat out on the drum skin to signal whose turn it was to peel potatoes. But I may also have just imagined that because I wasn’t paying adequate attention.
We not only saw a reproduction flag flying above the fort but also saw the original wooden cross brace from the famous defence. It had been preserved as if it was a religious relic. I confess that I don’t particularly understand America’s near worship of its flag but, of course, this flag has much more historic significance than most. It was, therefore, pretty cool to see the crumbly old wood. The defence of the Fort took place over the 13th and 14th of September and it didn’t really end in a victory for either side. It was more a withdrawal by the British naval vessels because the great defence of the fort had depleted all of their ammo. If memory serves, the whole War of 1812 similarly concluded because everyone just sort of gave up and decided to pack it in. Anyway, the flag that was flying during that 25 hour period of conflict had been sewn by Mary Pickersgill and it was seeing the flag emerge through the smoke the next day that told all the onlookers – including Francis Scott Key – that America had prevailed and still held the Fort. So that it what the national anthem is all about. We had taken the boys to see the original Star Spangled Banner way back in 2014 so we were gradually piecing together its history in a scattershot way.
As a Civil War nerd, Mr Pict was much more keen on the Fort’s history from the Civil War era. During that conflict, the fort had been used as a military prison and some prominent prisoners had been held there. One building told the story of that period of history and we were able to step inside one of the very pokey jail cells.
It was a sticky hot day and the kids and I are not much into military history so we didn’t look at every single space or exhibit in detail. We walked around the ramparts and took in the views and we pottered around in the various barrack buildings. Each building exhibited a period of the fort’s history, including its use in the First World War as a military hospital and its use in the Second World War as a coastguard base. There was a room filled with barrels to show what the gunpowder stores would have looked like and there was a collection of cannon outside one building.
The boys had had more than enough of visiting the fort, especially because it was so similar to Fort Mifflin, so we decided to depart before they spontaneously combusted in a combination of frustration and heat. They soon cheered up on the walk back to the car, however, since they found dozens of shed cicada skins stuck to the bark of trees.